Best Hotdog in Williamsburg? The Wiener is...

Although it is not as pertinent as it once was, the all-American hotdog remains a staple of the carnivore's diet. Food networks have devoted entire shows about the regional manifestations of the dog...from Mexican potato-chip toppings to the tomato and pepper vegetation of Chicago. The local Williamsburg hotdog has no specific cultural or geographic affiliation. It is truly a mutt among the more pedigreed types found throughout the country- i.e. the cheese coney of Cincinnati.

For this evaluation my friend Hank joined me for a lunchtime jaunt through five of Williamsburg's hotdog joints in search of the best bite. Hank's qualifications include a healthy appetite and the realization that spending the day eating hotdogs was probably a bad, bad thing to do. But boy did we have fun.

We started with Gus's Hotdogs out on Richmond Road which occupies a modest building (once a Dairy Queen) on the tourist strip. The Williamsburg restaurant is part of a Greek-owned "chain" in nearby Newport News and has a loyal local following. The modest (and extremely affordable) menu is very direct with grilled hotdogs on squishy white-bread buns and the regular assortment of toppings. Cheese and chili covered fries are a speciality item. The general complaint about the Gus hotdog is its slim size. The girth challenged dog is something that champion hotdog eaters could fantasize about. The experience set the stage for implementing Hank's "bun to meat ratio" for the rest of the day's evaluation. If you have a carful of small, hungry kids...Gus's is your place! A grown-up could easily eat 2, 3, or more hotdogs here. Since we were on a mission, we stopped at one apiece. As a bonus, the hotdog sculpture seen in the above photograph is probably the best contemporary folk art in town.

The next stop was the Williamsburg General Store on Richmond Road. This store wins hands down for the amount and variety of tourist trinkets for sale under one roof. They also have a huge road sign advertising Nathan's Hotdogs-the New York standard. We were really looking forward to this but apparently the inside restaurant has not opened all summer...a disappointing non-starter here. (PS...take the darn sign down!!!)

We next ventured down to Retro's Good Eats on Prince George Street adjacent to the Historic Area. Retro's has long advertised "Williamsburg's Best Hotdog". The gimmick that draws you into believing this is the huge selection of toppings that are offered: from blue cheese cole slaw to bacon to jalapenos. Retro's is not for the indecisive. We found our hotdogs overpowered by the toppings and the large, yellowish bun. It was hard to actually enjoy the meat (I know that's an arbitrary hotdog term) and we left feeling the most queasy of all the stops. The fresh cut fries and limeades are definitely worth the visit though. You could spend some money here if you are not careful. I would probably visit more often except for the blaring canned doo-wop music which creates an old-timey, soda fountain experience.

http://www.retrosgoodeats.com/

I was looking forward to our next hotdog destination - The Golden Horseshoe Grill overlooking the 18th hole of the famed Green Course at Colonial Williamsburg. In years past, lunchtime dining in this beautiful spot generated fond memories both from the ambience and one of the largest hotdogs available to the general public (outside of a Love Shop catalog). The hotdog was particular well served by a wonderful sweet red-pepper relish.

But like memories, expectations often pale in light of current economic realities. When we arrived today, not a soul was seated in the lovely dinning room or outdoor veranda. A lone barkeep/server suggested the grill was still in operation but offered only a limited menu of pre-packaged sandwiches and -thank God-hotdogs. So we sat and wondered how things had changed. We heard the microwave "grilling" our dogs which arrived as plump as ever accompanied with the beloved red pepper goop and a handful of potato chips. The mustard came in little plastic packages (how far the mighty CW dining experience has fallen). This used to be a contender for Williamsburg's best hotdog experience but I guess all good things come to an end.

http://www.colonialwilliamsburgresort.com/dining/goldenhorseshoe

By now the romantic notion of eating our way through Williamsburg's hotdog genre was beginning to wear off. But I had one more place to try - The Queen Anne Dairy Snak located on the eastside of town on Route 143. The Queen Anne Dairy Snak is one of those picturesque, circa 1950s, slices of roadside Americana. Its staff and clientele clearly represent a cross-section of the demographic spectrum--all good things.

Here you order at the window and take a number. I have long frequented the QADS for their soft-serve ice cream and had studied the menu of fried seafood, subs, burgers, etc. religiously but always have been too chicken to order anything but ice cream. Boy my reticence was clearly a mistake. For $5.70 we got two hotdogs all the way and two medium cokes which by far turned out to be the best, authentic experience of the day. Grilled to perfection and topped with fresh chili, mustard, and onions, these dogs were clearly made with love and attention. They even came cased in these colorful wrappers that vividly proclaimed "HotDog" on the inside. We sat at the rickety picnic table on the "veranda" beneath the large air-handling unit and congratulated ourselves about finding the best hotdog in Williamsburg at the The Queen Anne Dairy Snak.

South of the Border - No Burma Shave Here

This Mexican restaurant's name may evoke memories of those family trips down I-95 to Florida and the fantastically tacky tourist trap just on the North Carolina/South Carolina state line but you won't find Pedro in this place. Like many towns across the nation, Williamsburg now has a plethora of the typical chip and salsa"Mexican" eateries. Without question, South of the Border on 2nd Street is the best of this genre in the local area. It is a family run establishment and great care seems to go in making every meal fresh and consistent. The tortila chips and salsa greet you as you are seated but I guarantee they are better than most. In addition, a small bowl of bean con queso broadens the dipping experience.

Based on my observations, the standard burrito, taco, and enchiladas plates seem to carry the day with most of the local patrons. Big crowds of CW employees can be found during the lunch rush. I would recommend however, the carne asada, or the carne asade tacos, and my favorite, camarones diablo-the devil shrimp. The latter are large shrimps in a spicy tomato sauce. When this dish was first introduced, I would end up drenched from head to toe from the heat. Unfortunately, some namby pamby customers complained about the spice level and the cooks have toned it down considerably. But you can insist on it extra hot. Always ask for a bowl of the hot salsa regardless to drench any of the menu items.

I eat here a lot but the best recommendation is the crowded tables of the local latino community enjoying the food and the wide-screen Mexican soccer channel. There is a cool bar with a good selection of Mexican beer--some on draft--and good margaritas. I need to remember to order the tamales more often. Or as that famous billboard on I-95 points out: Chili today, hot tamale! Try South of the Border and tell them Pedro sent you.

http://www.southofthebordermexrest.com/

Capitol Pancake House - Where the Local Constabulary Eats

There are plenty of caricatures about the eating habits of our men and women in blue but you know it is a good sign when you see the police cars congregated in a restaurant's parking lot without a misdemeanor in sight. Such is the case (no pun intended here) with the weekday breakfast scene at the Capitol Pancake House--one of many of the town's Greek owned syrup and batter places. What's sets the Capitol PH apart is the local following of both LE and civilians of many sizes and shapes. (Warning: eating daily at any pancake house tends to push the shapes towards the rotund side of the spectrum.)

The Capitol is conveniently and coincidentally located on Capitol Landing Road near the Historic Area. The large restaurant is staffed with a core group of long-time waitresses who will remember your preferences after you become a regular. Besides the competent but standard breakfast food, the locals are tempted by a discount card that the Capitol offers to its regular patrons. And the tenth meal is free! It's a shame they don't offer a discount for a local gym though.

The Capitol also offer a nice lunch selection but you won't find any health food among the burgers, sandwiches, and pasta dishes. The close proximity of the restaurant to Colonial Williamsburg entices many of the hard working employees for lunch...you can expect to see someone in colonial garb at every lunch hour without having to buy a ticket.

I would recommend the Capitol to all locals looking for a decent breakfast spot. If you are a tourist, it is great as well. I can't imagine how a visitor goes about choosing a pancake house given the wide variety of names and locations. If you are indecisive, come here!

Now let's see...if I eat breakfast and lunch here on Monday and Tuesday (Tuesday is double stamp day on your discount card) only three more meals until my free one! Or is it four? No matter how you do the math, I hope to see you there. Just don't have any outstanding warrants.

http://www.pancakehouses.com/

Hog Wild Smokehouse - Perhaps Hog Mild is More Appropriate

I was looking forward to trying this restaurant for several reasons.  I have driven by the ramshackle looking frame building way out on Route 60 past Toanao several times in the recent past noticing the overflowing parking lot and wood smoke belching from the cooker-both good signs.  I had also read several positive reviews on the internet.  I also love barbeque. And finally, it was my birthday celebration dinner with my sweetie.

Maybe because we had sat through the new Julie & Julia movie and were sated by digitally mastered French dishes.  Or that maybe we had a little too much popcorn.  But I wanted desperately to like this restaurant.  I was even mentally planning to bring my British friends for an American-style pig out. But as you may predict by now, I did not have a great experience.

The restaurant bills its fare as: "Traditional smokehouse barbeque and authentic Creole cuisine."  We tried the barbequed chicken, pulled pork, and brisket and ended up asking for a to-go box but not because the portions were too large.  We left the seasoned plank fries behind. 

Several Cajun/New Orleans specialities are featured on the menu and perhaps we may try them at some point.  Fortunately for me, my son spent a year at the University of Louisiana at Lafayette-so I know something about Cajun food. But based  on this one dinner, I would say the food was OK but the dim interior was oppressively uncomfortable.  Service however, was both earnest and pleasant.

The best part of the meal was coming home to a Craig Claiborne recipe cheesecake made by my special birthday chef.

http://www.hogwildsmokehouse.com/

How You Eat So Much? Try Mystic Jamaica - Guest Review by Mighty Sasha

There are dogs all over the world, so it should come as no surprise that we occasionally get cravings for good ethnic food. Mighty Sasha is especially partial to Mystic Jamacia. Located in a small, run-down shopping center at 15513 Warwick Blvd., the restaurant offers a wide range of island fare including a variety of savory pasties, piquant jerk chicken, rich oxtail stew, tender Jamaican barbequed ribs, and Mighty Sasha's favorite -- curried goat. 

On weekends and by chance, the menu at Mystic Jamaica might also feature mannish water (a tasty goat soup reputed to be an aphrodisiac), cow foot ("the good gummy mon"), select seafood specialties, freshly made juices, and tangy ginger beer. Mighty Sasha often treats her delivery service to a large ginger beer, which is sufficient for making several dark and stormys. If you can't travel to Jamaica, do the next best thing. Load up your MP3 with Peter Tosh and your belly with curried goat. You may need a nap, but you won't be disappointed.

The Backfin Restaurant - The Finest Seafood in Virginia?

Bill O'Reilly would like the Backfin Restaurant.  Keith Olbermann would not.  I actually have no idea if either of these statements is true but I use the example to suggest that most people either love or hate this long time Williamsburg establishment.  This assessment is partially based on internet reviews at Yahoo and TripAdvisor as well as informal interviews with area residents.

The Backfin is off the beaten path located on Ironbound Road making it primarily a local's haunt.  It is fair to say that the restaurant has a large local following.  At lunch, you will see contractors in their short-sleeved oxford shirts and kahki slacks.  You also will see a number of older women with white hair who fill the tables in the early afternoon.  Sports, especially William and Mary sports, seems to be the common denominator that draws much of the predominantly male, beer drinking cliental.

In spite of being miles from open water, the decor is nautically themed - a cross between Long-John Silvers and an Outer Banks tourist trap.  There is even an outdoor deck to take advantage of the sea breeze generated by passing traffic.  The well-worn bar suggests that many a sailor (golfer) makes it a regular spot of anchorage.  The seemingly pleasant servers wear the beach restaurant uniform of brightly colored tee shirts (on sale at counter) and kahki shorts.

The menu boasts that it offers the best seafood in Williamsburg- a sentiment that must be shared by many.  I have never had much luck in confirming this for myself among the many deep fried offerings that one could find at most college cafeterias.  Even the signature (and award winning) crabcake seems devoid of the prerequisite lump backfin having instead a lot of claw meat and filler.   Today, I tried the lunch 'special'-a backfin crab quesidilla to re-assess any previous biases.  What showed up was a large flour torilla, filled with disappointing crab meat and melted cheedar cheese.  Dollops of sour cream and 'salsa' a la Taco Bell came along to embellish the entree.  I would like to report that the crunch that accompanied each bite was not bits of crab shell but I can't.  I also tried the award winning seafood chowder in hopes of redeeming my experience.  I found it to be a concoction of stewed tomatoes with bits of fish and/or crab and a lone shrimp.

It is possible that some of the broiled fish entrees have merit as well as the raw bar items.  But my overall impression is that no matter what you choose, I would rate it as C food.  But then again, Bill O'Reilly has over 3 million followers, so each to his own.  Perhaps it was no coincidence that I saw Fox news playing on the TV over the bar when I left today.

http://www.backfinrestaurant.com/

What's Inn and Out in Williamsburg - Guest Review by Hungryman

For the canine gourmand, restaurant options in Williamsburg are limited to take-out.  A shiny black and white coat will open a lot of doors, but you need a tie to get in the Williamsburg Inn. On a recent trip to Anderson's Corner Animal Hospital, Hungryman had the great fortune to sample the cuisine at Taco Mexicali, located at 6572 Richmond Road. As the name implies, their specialty is tacos. These are not your typical gringo-style wraps overflowing with watery iceberg lettuce and flavorless cheese, which are a nuisance to anyone with respectable jowels. Taco Mexicali tacos are the real thing. They are simple, delicious, and offered with several irresistible fillings — pastor, marinated roast pork; barbacoa, smoked and steamed beef; carnitas, braised pork butt; chorizo, spicy sausage to name just a few. At the condiment bar you will find green chili sauce, chipotle sauce, whole fire-roasted jalapenos, diced onion, cilantro, and other traditional toppings. The restaurant also makes very good guacamole and refreshing margaritas. Hungryman has not actually tried the margaritas, but his people say they are excellent. If you are a hungryman or hungrygirl and want delicious Mexican fare at bargain prices, leash up, pack some paper towels for excess drool, and have your chauffeur drive you to Taco Mexicali.